Betta Fish Won't Eat, Overfeeding Kills Them
Like 3 Dislike 0 Published on 20 May 2013
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Question Submission: My betta will not eat and I've kept trying now for days. I'm afraid of my fish starving to death. What are some tactics to get him to eat so he is healthy. JOIN OUR FACEBOOK GROUP OF 45K MEMBERS. Here are some example topics:
That one will be fine. It has a thermostat if it gets too warm, it will shut off. Just be sure to watch the thermometer for the first few hours on your tank. If it gets too high too quick, take that heater out and ask for a refund because they sold you a faulty heater. It happens sometimes. I would advice u to use Indian Almond Leaves , be on time with water changes & plz don't over feed ur fish.
Betta wont eat - https://youtu.be/1maIZF-2aXE
I'm in a dorm too! smile emoticon my first mistake was not doing enough water changes and not knowing about cycling. Once I got a master test kit my whole world got easier. Plants are also amazing but can be expensive and frustrating. my betta also got stuck to a filter intake like yours so you might want to put a sponge over it, and if the current is too strong then make a baffle.
I also got a 3 gallon tank to start with at Walmart for like 30 dollars with everything besides the filter included. You can get a sponge filter from eBay for like 4 dollars! An even cheaper option for filter intake safety is to get a prefilter sponge. It's 5 bucks for a pack of 3 on Amazon. Very cool, just slip the sponge on the intake tube of your filter. It also aids in biological filtration because the good bacteria will colonize on the sponge. Best Food for Betta Fish? Flakes vs Pellets?
I still don't understand the term cycling. Is it the water conditioning process? It's the nitrogen cycle, good bacteria will build up in your filter and oxidize the ammonia released by your fish, thus nitrate will be put out in your tank instead. It's the nitrogen cycle. Fish poop, which is ammonia, is very harmful to fish. Good bacteria in the gravel sort of eat up the ammonia and produce nitrite, which is then turned into nitrate which is harmless in small amounts. Water changes get rid of nitrate. Thing is, for the good bacteria to thrive, there needs to be a certain amount of water in the tank. That's why small tanks usually don't start a cycle.
A master test kit can be used to test ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite, and pH levels in your tank. Once ammonia is 0 and some nitrate is present then your tank will be cycled. Petco and petsmart tests water for free too. This whole process is a lot harder in smaller tanks so that's why we're suggesting a 3 gallon, you should check Craigslist and stuff and maybe find one for free!
Pets mart is having a sale on them too I believe, like 20 dollars or something. Which sounds expensive (especially to a college student) but it lasts a long time! How often should I change the water? Honestly, I'm terrified that I will hurt the fish in process due to high chemical levels or low temperature. Weekly or bi-weekly (twice per week) water changes of 40-50% should suffice once your cycle is complete. You may find yourself doing them more often if you're having spikes in ammonia and nitrite that you're struggling to get under control. Also, don't over feed. Also, with the master kit, are the test tubes reusable? And as for tank size, I will look around for a 3 gallon on Craig's list, but I am very low on money due to college.