Platy Fish Care - Platies Tank Setup
Like 2 Dislike 0 Published on 4 Dec 2019
Aquarium platy fish tank Care is easy for even beginners. I encourage people to keep fish tank Platies. They breed like crazy and are fun to watch be parents. Planted tanks are my favorite type of fish tanks to setup lately.
Omega Flake Food: http://amzn.to/2ytLF51
Added talk on fish tanks:
Anyone know what the actual crap is going on with my filter? It’s makes the noise a lot. A lot of times I have to unplug it. I cleaned it out entirely with old tank water but nothing is jammed or stuck in there Unless it’s WAY in the motor or whatever. Should I get a new one or is there a way to solve this? I’ll try to post a screen shot of the type I have in comments.
Platy Fish Cate - https://youtu.be/KBm_BNGTgSg
The impeller is worn. That’s why it’s
rattling around. This happens when they get old, or sand gets in and wears it prematurely. You can completely break down your HOB and remove the impeller...it should be magnetically driven so easy to pull out. You can also remove the impeller portion from the magnet piece and its little metal bar. Clean all of that really well, and flush the hole where the impeller sits to see if that helps it at all. If not, you can replace the impeller and magnetic portion.
Believe it's called waggles or shimmies. (The motion) Platties and mollies seem to be more susceptible to it in my experience. Comes from a electrolyte imbalance. Add a half to 1tbs per 10 gallons of Epsom salt. Ick is probably not helping this condition.
Ich for sure. Temp increase for a week to force the ich to cycle through its phases quicker. Hope the meds/salt helps. I'd keep treatments going after it looks to have disappeared too just to be sure.
Salt treatment 3 times per day at least 20 minutes. Aquarium temperature maintain 32 degree. And mix 1 table spoon 10 gallons of water. I’m currently treating with Api treatment - so I will do salt right after. I don’t want to mix the two as I don’t know if it already contains salt.
Someone help I still haven’t be able to fix this guy he can’t stay down always floating I’ve put the heat up in he’s own tank I’ve salt bathed him even put the ph right up nothing seems to work so I’ve put him in the pond so at least he has some swimming room for now any suggestions.
He has float. It’s a common thing with Frontosa. What are you feeding him? What else is he in with? Frontosa really should be kept in a colony of their own kind and have the tank to themselves.
I would try not feeding him(if he’s still eating) and try the epsom salt bath. I would isolate him in a hospital tank. The last resort is using a hypodermic needle into his swim bladder to release the air. I’ve never done that to a fish before and personally wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it. I don’t know if anything you’ve been feeding floats but they need fast sinking foods.
sometimes air can get trapped in their digestive system as well. It sucks but with fronts they don’t always recover from float. They’re really a pretty sensitive fish. They don’t always handle large water changes, they can get punked on by smaller fish, don’t like bright lights and need fast sinking foods so they don’t take in air trying to feed from the surface. Sorry man, wish I could offer more advice. Just the downside to keeping fish. Some times you do everything right that you can do and it still doesn’t work.
Most definitely not normal. That’s dangerous. Turn off at the wall, unplug and then remove and throw it away. If you have warranty maybe try get a replacement.
Thanks guys. Just replaced it. Doesn’t seem to have any burn marks or anything but will be getting rid of it. It was working fine after the clip I showed u guys but better safe than sorry.
Definitely not. Heaters are the number one cause of tank crashes. Having worked in retail and service for many years, we’ve seen it happen over and over with all types of heaters. The following are ways to protect against heater problems.
1 – Don’t use glass heaters, they can all be problems (even the almighty Eheim). I only trust Aqueon Pro and Cobalt Neo-Therm. The Cobalts have a much narrower range of temperature, they only let the temp vary about 0.1 degrees F as opposed to most heaters which allow up to two degrees variation between turning off and turning back on again.
2 – Keep it weak. All recommendations are too strong. A heater that is too strong WILL kill your entire tank one day when it fails on. 4-5 watts per gallon is more than enough to lethally overheat a tank in most homes (unless your house is unusually cool). I aim for about 2 watts per gallon. This is enough to heat the tank, but not enough to overheat the tank too much if it fails on. So a 75-gallon should only have about 150 watts TOTAL.